My Seiko 5 Sports Automatic 200M SKZ255J1 PVD Frankenmonster Diver

The ‘Frankenmonster’ as the SKZ255J1 is affectionately nicknamed is one of Seiko’s more ‘boyish’ models from it’s Seiko 5 Sports lineup. My guess is that ‘Franken’ came from the studs all round (Frankenstein’s head) and ‘Monster’ from the sheer size of it. The ‘Frankenmonster’ is really about the same size to Seiko’s ‘Monster’ divers.

Seiko 5 Sports Automatic 200M SKZ255J1 PVD ‘Frankenmonster’ Diver

• Model : SKZ255J1
• Price : USD 405 (chronograph.com as of 24 Dec 2008)
• Type : Divers
• Metal : Stainless Steel
• Movement : Automatic
• Caliber: 7S36 ( 23 Jewels )
• Black dial with all black case and bracelet.
• Flat hardlex crystal with black resin shroud.
• Machine knurled PVD bezel edge.
• Solid links stainless steel bracelet with wetsuit extension.
• Unidirectional bezel.
• Made in Japan.
• Bracelet reference: 3401-GC  (max 22cm wrist)

The Seiko 5’s are typically more affordable than higher end Seiko watches and are mass produced. Less popular models are taken off production lines quickly and new models introduced. The nature of the Seiko’s approach ensures that Seiko 5’s are by far trendier to target the younger market as opposed to the Grand Seiko range. The Seiko 5 Sports range is defined as below.

SEIKO 5: A great marketer had the idea in the 70’s. SEIKO 5 watches have the following 5 attributes (thus the name SEIKO 5):

1. Automatic
2. Water resistant
3. Shock resistant
4. Date
5. Day

Note that some SEIKO 5’s are in fact SEIKO 4’s, if the “Day” function is omitted, then the Caliber 7S25 is used.

The only difference to the normally found 7S26 is the omission of the day wheel. Also re-issues of SEIKO 5 Sports often use the 7S36 caliber. Again the 7S36 is similar to the most popular 7S26, yet it features 23 Jewels as opposed to the 21 Jewels in the 7S26.

All these movements beat at a rate of 21′600 bph (beats per hour) or 6 bps (beats per second). As a comparison, an ETA 2824-2 beats at 28′800 bph or 8 bps. A Miyota 82xx beats at 21′600 bph. Why these three movements? Simply because they are found in probably 80% of all inexpensive automatic wrist watches. A market share that is huge, yet challenged these days (2006) by an increasing share of inexpensive China made automatic movements.

Automatic watches (also called a self-winding watch) are really mechanical watches, typically with a balance wheel escapement, whose mainspring is wound by the motion of the wearer’s arm, instead of having to be wound manually every day. Whereas quartz watches are powered by electricity, a mechanical watch is powered by a mainspring which must be rewound for the watch to keep time.

Now back to the Frankenmonster, I first noticed this watch earlier this year sometime in April when a friend showed it to me. It was huge on her skinny wrist but she somehow managed to carry it off. I later learned that she got it at a steal and another mutual friend paid perhaps like 35% to 40% more. Months past and I almost forgot about the watch.

Until recently when I began searching online, I had earlier left the Frankenmonster in an isolated part of my mind. It didn’t take me long to realise that there are 2 variants of this model. The 255 (all black PVD) and the 253 (black PVD and stainless steel) versions.

Even within the individual models, there was the ‘J’ and ‘K’ types. The ‘J” types were those where movement and casing was fully manufactured and assembled in Japan. The ‘K’ types were largely Seikos manufactured overseas with cheaper labour translating into lower retail prices. There is no telling where your watch is assembled or the original movement and other parts were manufactured. Movement could be manufactured in Hong Kong, Malaysia or Singapore, shipped to China to be cased (assembled in layman’s terms). I’m sure Seiko maintains an uniformed quality control standard across all their factories to those in Japan. No matter, I will go for a ‘J’ type if its available in a particular model. If I’m going to buy Japan, then I might as well buy Japan if you know what I mean.

So, how to differentiate between a ‘J’ or ‘K’ type?

• Jewels: ‘J’ types usually specify the number of jewels on the face of the dial i.e. ‘23 Jewels’. This is something most ‘K’ types omit though the ‘K’ type in this model lineup readily displays that.
• Made in: ‘J’ types will be marked ‘MADE IN JAPAN’ between the 6 to 8 o’clock positions. The ‘K’ types on the other hand are simply marked ‘JAPAN’ between the 6 and 7 o’clock positions or the Caliber as in this case; 7S36 for the SKZ255K1.

Picture of the Seiko SKJ255J1 courtesy of Chronograph.com

Picture of the Seiko SKJ255K1 courtesy of Chronograph.com

After searching online, I quickly learnt another thing about the SKZ255J1. The ‘K1″ though not readily available as compared to other models costs a fair deal each time I found an online trader selling a piece. The ‘J1′ types were extremely hard to track down and when I did find one, it was that ‘35% to 40%’ more than the ‘K1′. Being hard to source basically meant online traders would without a doubt, charge more for the models. In fact, the SKZ255 be it ‘J’ or ‘K’ types are already considered to be ‘over-priced’ by many Seiko fans. For me, the Frankenmonster is a unique automatic diver in its PVD coating. I had to get my hands on it. This is my first Seiko 5 and I do not know if it will be my last.

My online search led me to a watch trader in a local mall in Chinatown area. I got the ‘J’ type much cheaper than any online trader I checked out. The ‘J’ type was almost the price of most ‘K’ types available online if not cheaper. Stepping into the shop, I discovered something else, web prices and retail shop prices differ by as much as 30% or more; web prices being cheaper. Had I walked into the outlet without placing an initial order, I would have gotten the ‘K’ type instead of the ‘J’ type for the price I paid.

All in all, I got the SKZ255J1 for a good deal. Less than what I would have paid online for a ‘K’ type with most other traders. Just for the record, Thong Sia is retailing the SKZ255K1 Frankenmonster for SGD 799 in their shops. I definitely paid lesser than that for my SKZ255J1. So much so I bought another watch on impulse. I will have the SKA383P1 in my next post.

As for both folks I know who bought the same watch, my gut tells me they both have the ‘K’ type and not the ‘J’ type. One walked into and paid full retail price. While another got web price for it. Another reason why I got the Frankenmonster, it has one of the meanest LumiBrite glows by Seiko’s standards. Check out the photos below (need to get a tripod soon). Compared to my Samurai, the Frankenmonster is a bad boy.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, December 24th, 2008 at 15:33 and is filed under photos and tagged with 200M, 22cm wrist, 23 Jewels, 3401-GC, 7S25, 7S36, Automatic, bhp, bps, Bracelet, Caliber, Crystal, Dial, Diver, Frakenmonster, Frankenstein, Grand Seiko, Hardlex, J Type, K Type, Machine Knurled, Made In Japan, Mainspring, Miyota 82xx, Monster, PVD, Samurai, Seiko, Seiko 5, Seiko 5 Sports, Shroud, SKA383P1, SKZ253, SKZ255J1, SKZ255K1, Unidirectional Bezel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.